Great Western Coffee Shop

Rather spectacular - a video news report, from the BBC (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-latin-america-37136908):

Ouch! I shall be in Chile in January, but not travelling by rail. On this occasion, I say "Thankfully!"

I am afraid the railways in Chile are in a sad state, especially the broad gauge (5'6") in and around Santiago and going South. Passenger services are sparse, I visit there every couple of years and the extent of services seems to diminish every year. You can hardly get anywhere, but freight is increasing.

The only service with anything going for it is the Santiago Metro where millions are being spent to try and alleviate the severe congestion and pollution caused by cars and buses around the capital. My wife was there in June and the pollution was so bad they were banning all open fires in an attempt to reduce it, and she was 20 miles out from the centre.

Go to North of Santiago where everything becomes metre gauge and passenger services are non existent, and ore trains run on isolated lines joined by the 'Longtitudal Railway' which is overgrown and tarmaced over on many crossings.

How isolated it is especially in the Atacama Desert they found the remains of a passenger who had got off a train and wandered off, his mummified remains found twenty years later with his train ticket in his pocket. That must have been up on the bit where they recorded 13 passengers one year as travelling on the once a week each way train. Sounds a bit like Coombe!

In which case Mrs FT, N! and myself shall go from airport to Valparaiso by road.

There aren't any trains to Valpo, I was on one of the last ones back in 1980. Three hours by train, one and a half by coach now, motorway all the way.

You have to go to the central bus station, which is right next door to the Estation Central (a shadow of its former self) to get your bus, which run on the sort of frequency that makes Oxford Tube look a bit infrequent.

Be careful there, it is very, very, busy, and on the top level of a large shopping centre (worth a wander round) and a haven for those petty criminals on the lookout for those unsure of themselves. Don't accept the offer of help with suitcases, they can disappear in the crowds. An incredibly noisy and busy place.

I have been to Chile eight or ten times now, never had any problems, but if you appear unsure you could attract the wrong type.

If you haven't been before you will enjoy it, and as you leave the bus station by sitting on the left you get a brief but panoramic view of the loco depot and yard outside the station. I enjoy Chile, nice people, friendly, but just be on your guard as gringos you will stand out !

Many thanks indeed, Billhere! I am obliged to you for the advice. I fancy myself as the savvy travvy, but after a 22 hour flight, who knows? I am certain that not even Mrs FT, N! will be up for any retail therapy by then.